Moscow – ODing on Jesus, tanks.

Arriving in Moscow we completed our last leg on the Tran-Siberian. We rode 3rd class platzkarny train for more than 3000 miles. And I have to say it was a great experience. The train was clean, and the atmosphere was surprisingly not rowdy at all, except when occasionally someone invites you to get totally plastered on vodka, which Greg got to partake (I was too knackered that day).

3rd class train open bunks.

3rd class train open bunks.


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Moscow is just such a beautiful city all around, so much culture and history, we saw so many churches and more religious iconography than we could possibly digest. In the end we were on the brink of Jesus fatigue.

One night Greg’s friend Ekaterina showed us around town, and we happened to run into an illegal street racing party. Hundreds of bikers decked out in their finest leather riding outfits and showing off their rides. The girls were particularly bad-ass looking. We asked one of the bikers if there were going to be any racing that night, unfortunately the answer was no but as he put it – “we’ve got drinks, bikes and girls here tonight, what more could I want?”. Well you can hardly argue with that.

One of the coolest things we did in Moscow was going to the Tank Museum. An hour out of moscow on a historically “classified” Red Army armor testing facility, the museum displays a ridiculous number of retired tanks from various 20th century wars. It was very eerie for me to walk by these seemingly indestructible massive hunks of weaponry. These were the real thing. How many lives did these plow through and blow apart?

Tanks R us.

Tanks R us.

Of course this was an American tank

Of course this was an American tank

Prop from Star Wars or real armored vehicle?

Prop from Star Wars or real armored vehicle?


It felt like we were the only foreign tourists there that day and the museum seemed to be a popular choice for weekend family outings. So many families with their kids just having a great time checking out tanks. I swear almost every one of my photos had some kid in it.

In Russia, kids play with real tanks.

In Russia, kids play with real tanks.

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Next up St. Petersburg – not too bad for a city built on a swamp! (Actually it’s absolutely gorgeous)

Siberian whirlwind

So one morning we woke up in Ulan Baatar Mongolia, less than 24 hrs later, after a 12 hour bus ride and 4 hour train ride, at 4 in the morning, we arrived at a snow covered wood cabin next to Lake Baikal, Russia, with a man named Federov.

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Federov was the host of the cabin we found on Airbnb. After a few hurried last minute messages back and forth, we gave him our train schedule but had no idea when we were going to be picked up, certainly didn’t expect him there at the ungodly hour of 3:30 am, but as we got off the train in the midst of a heavily snowing night at a tiny closed train station, half wondering if we were going to be spending the next few hours freezing in the snow, there he was! We could not be more surprised and grateful. What service! I have to say after a few days in Russia that people may not smile much here, but most are extremely kind and try to be helpful when it comes down to it. Even after we explain that we don’t speak Russian with mime they would keep talking to us as if we did. Maybe it has to do with the 17 hours daylight?

Lake Baikal is the second biggest lake in the world and also the deepest. I was hoping the lake was still frozen enough to walk on – in the winter time the ice can be more than a meter deep and they actually run public buses over the ice to an island in the lake – but when we got there it was mostly melted already. It was very pretty anyway.

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Most of the traveler tales about Baikal we heard about usually seem to involve a car getting stuck in the ice or mud. In our case it was no different. Here is a man digging his car out of the mud.

It looked like he`s done this before

It looked like he’s done this before.

Next day we ended up in Irkuskt. We got to our pink birthday cake of a cheap hotel and pressed the elevator to go to the fourth floor, unknowingly the door opened at third and surprise! We stepped into a floor entirely covered in thick carpet glue, with no warning sign. After a few expletives in our now glue-covered shoes we get to the correct floor and open our room, surprise again! The room was filled with so many huge house plants that it looked like a jungle. So turns out the hotel is under renovation and things are a little disorganized, Russian style.

The day was Victory day in Russia, one of the biggest public holidays here honoring the Russian defeat of Nazi German forces during WWII. The streets were filled with an electric energy and flag waving people, most of them drunk.